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Montclair Camper Trailer Repair

Published Jun 10, 25
12 min read

Pop Up Camper Repair Montclair, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything awry, but retracted both awning simply to be safe. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the ideal hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid right into has retreated from the wall surface and turned a bit - Montclair Camper Trailer Repair. I'm assuming the repair work will involve changing that whole size of rainfall seamless gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We've obtained busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a curved axle, major repair work, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy trip prior to we realized the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out given that it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, etc, is fine. The rear bracket setting up is fine, but the front one is fractured at the base and entirely damaged through at the top, to make sure that the top support arm no more attaches to the camper. We are in problem. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound reasonable? Even the real support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier grey metal - it's the grey little bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our despair.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it has to be completely changed? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new back then. If absolutely nothing else, we would like suggestions regarding how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps even obtain us via the summertime - without having to put in an all new awning! We remain in an extremely significant bind due to the fact that we have actually a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or postponed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I would certainly instead discover a quick and effective solution. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the fourth one, I require to remove the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof covering decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise observe how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to find off initially prior to the final steps of this article (exposing the front and back edges of the roof outdoor decking).

Below's a detail of exactly how the awning installing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this step up until the awning was on the ground but I saw this established screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, just draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical edge at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing bracket on the. Getting rid of the placing bracket of the awning. When the placing brackets are detached, it's time to remove the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is essentially much like a normal piece of light weight aluminum roof covering side trim molding except that at the lower side there is a round track with a port in it.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Below's a take a look at the circular network at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Heads up! If you're simply changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, then you wouldn't require to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Now it's similar to eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that just tug it out.

You might need to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Then simply tug it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went quite rapidly.

When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) HEADS UP! When I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will instantly snap totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground gradually by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side individually till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply glides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the two set screws were eliminated I might move the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I pried them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rustic staples quieting. I pried them out as best I could. The next point holding down the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I just tore up the plastic insert and took out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later if I need to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. To raise that, the edge molding should be gotten rid of.

I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I can swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scrape to a tight 6 large putty blade. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. Then I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened the other corner trim in the very same means, and curved it sideways simply enough so that I might lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which implies I'll finish getting rid of those edge trim pieces completely down besides. However we'll get to that later. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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The edge of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down yet adhesive at this point) and after that I could pull out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to draw up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the pieces together. I do not recognize just how exactly they handled to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly understood the roofing system was shedding toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which implies I'll end getting rid of those corner trim pieces right down besides. We'll obtain to that later. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

It's just standing out with the staples. Lastly the side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side. Very same offer once more. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down however glue now) and afterwards I can pull out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Montclair Camper Trailer Repair. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began carefully peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts at all holding back the roofing system plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scraped up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to bring up easily intact without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Now I can see the steel framing beneath. Then the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand how specifically they managed to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing ply are joined with each other at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly realized the roofing was shedding stamina and stiffness as I drew up the leading layer, so cracked it off simply prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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