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Camper Awning Repair La Habra

Published Jun 06, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Shop La Habra, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything amiss, yet withdrawed both awning simply to be risk-free. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had actually been retreated from the wall surface (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually retreated from the wall surface and twisted a bit - Camper Awning Repair La Habra. I'm presuming the repair will require replacing that whole size of rain gutter (10 feet?) and most likely making use of bigger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually got busted braces on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, major repairs, and so on, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience prior to we realized the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out because it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is fine. The back brace assembly is great, but the front one is broken at the bottom and completely damaged through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no longer attaches to the camper.

Does this sound affordable? Even the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the braces are a larger grey metal - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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The Motor home is a 2007, however we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would such as suggestions as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly even obtain us with the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd instead find a fast and effective service. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to eliminate the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roofing outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to establish on the ground. I drew these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs ahead off initially before the final steps of this blog post (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).

Here's a detail of exactly how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this action up until the awning was on the ground yet I discovered this set screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the best end of the awning.) I went in advance and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the RV awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the placing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting bracket on the. Removing the mounting brace of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing like me, then you would not need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Just tug it out!

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber underneath.) HEADS UP! Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing unexpectedly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roofing that was fastened under it. When you begin drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly break free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that reduce it the ground bit by little by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just moves right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as both established screws were removed I might glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can eliminate the old roofing system decking is to expose the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next point holding down the rv fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once more I simply tore up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later on if I need to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. To raise that, the corner molding should be removed.

I could swing the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I could turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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At that factor I changed from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the same means, and curved it sidewards simply enough so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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It's just standing out through the staples. Finally the edge of the roof decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! So I have actually subjected the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Exact same deal again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting but glue at this moment) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts in any way holding down the roofing plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scuffed up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to bring up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I could see the steel framework under. But then the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize just how specifically they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly recognized the roof was shedding stamina and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

It's simply popping via the staples. Ultimately the side of the roofing system decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! I've revealed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the leading edge. Very same bargain once more. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much quieting yet adhesive now) and after that I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Camper Awning Repair La Habra. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

As soon as I scratched up a few of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The whole point began to bring up easily unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Now I might see the steel framework below. Yet then the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand exactly how precisely they managed to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly understood the roof covering was shedding strength and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so split it off just prior to the initial joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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