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Camper Service Near Me Irvine

Published Jun 03, 25
10 min read

Rv Camper Repair Near Me Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is glided right into has actually retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Service Near Me Irvine. I'm thinking the fixing will involve changing that whole length of rain gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing bigger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We've obtained busted braces on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a curved axle, major repairs, and so on, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy ride before we understood the axle remained in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out considering that it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, and so on, is fine. The back bracket setting up is great, but the front one is fractured near the bottom and completely appeared at the top, to ensure that the top assistance arm no more fastens to the camper. We are in trouble. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound sensible? Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier gray metal - it's the grey little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe also obtain us through the summertime - without having to place in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to locate a fast and reliable option. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I need to remove the RV awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roof outdoor decking, I require to remove the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to set on the ground. I drew these out. Pressing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off first before the final steps of this message (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing decking).

Below's an information of how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this action up until the awning got on the ground but I discovered this established screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing brace on the. Eliminating the mounting brace of the awning.

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To change the roof, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. Below's an appearance at the circular network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the whole roof like me, then you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to reduce the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You might have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Just tug it out!

Once the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber under.) HEADS UP! Once I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing all of a sudden broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the edge of the rubber roofing that was attached under it. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will instantly snap totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground gradually by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just glides right off the canvas by moving the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 established screws were eliminated I might slide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Another look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can remove the old roof decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rusty staples stifling. I tore them out as ideal I could. The following thing holding down the rv fiberglass siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later if I require to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the corner molding should be removed.

I could turn the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I might turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the very same method, and bent it sideways just sufficient so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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The side of the roofing decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof covering substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling but adhesive at this factor) and afterwards I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to draw up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the items together. I do not understand exactly how precisely they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing ply are signed up with together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly understood the roofing was shedding toughness and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off right before the initial seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I located a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which indicates I'll end getting rid of those edge trim pieces all the method down. We'll get to that later. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down however glue at this moment) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Camper Service Near Me Irvine. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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Camper Repair And Service Irvine, CACamper Trailer Repair Near Me Irvine, CA


I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. I started carefully peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners in all holding down the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

Once I scraped up some of the broken bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing started to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that signs up with the items with each other. I do not understand how precisely they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly understood the roofing was losing toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off right before the initial seam. A close of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof.

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