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Camper Roof Replacement Chino Hills

Published Jun 09, 25
11 min read

Camper Service And Repair Chino Hills, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Roof Replacement Chino Hills. I'm assuming the fixing will entail replacing that entire length of rain gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using larger gauge screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually got broken brackets on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant repair services, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy trip prior to we realized the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, etc, is fine. The back brace setting up is fine, yet the front one is broken at the base and entirely broken through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no longer affixes to the camper.

Even the real support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (Camper Roof Replacement Chino Hills).

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like guidance as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us with the summer - without having to put in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to find a fast and effective service. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I need to eliminate the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roof decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to establish on the ground. First I drew these out. Pushing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise observe exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially prior to the last steps of this post (revealing the front and back edges of the roofing decking).

Below's an information of just how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not really need to do this step till the awning was on the ground but I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the right end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, just draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the installing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the right. Removing the mounting bracket of the awning. Once the mounting braces are separated, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is basically just like a normal piece of light weight aluminum roof side trim molding other than that at the bottom edge there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Below's a consider the circular network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Heads up! If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, then you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to decrease the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Now it's similar to removing the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Draw out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to cut the end with an energy blade if it is tucked under the rail) and afterwards just pull it out.

You may have to reduce completion with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. After that just tug it out! Once the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went quite quickly.

When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber under.) HEADS UP! When I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire point suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. As soon as you start drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly break totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that reduce it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply slides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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Once the 2 established screws were eliminated I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

The next point holding down the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so again I simply pried up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I can loosen some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later on if I require to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. The roofing decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift have to be lifted. To raise that, the corner molding must be eliminated.

Then I can turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I might turn that item of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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I switched from a scraper to a stiff 6 vast putty knife. This piece cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. Then I switched from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the very same way, and curved it laterally just enough so that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which indicates I'll end eliminating those edge trim items all the way down. We'll obtain to that later. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's just standing out through the staples. Ultimately the side of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the rear of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to find the leading edge. Very same bargain once more. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling but glue at this factor) and after that I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. I started meticulously peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The whole point began to draw up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the items together. I don't understand exactly how exactly they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly realized the roof covering was shedding strength and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off prior to the very first joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I located a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which implies I'll finish eliminating those edge trim items all the method down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The edge of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much holding it down however adhesive at this moment) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Camper Roof Replacement Chino Hills. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

Camper Trailer Repair Chino Hills, CA

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. So I started meticulously peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners in all holding down the roof plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scuffed up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The whole point began to bring up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I could see the steel framing under. Yet then the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that signs up with the pieces together. I don't understand how precisely they managed to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are joined together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly recognized the roof was losing stamina and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off right before the very first joint. A close of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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