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Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Atwood

Published May 29, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing handles tightened up down.) I really did not see anything awry, however pulled back both awning simply to be secure. Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the right hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Atwood. I'm thinking the repair work will entail replacing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing larger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually got broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant fixings, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure prior to we realized the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime device, etc, is great. The back brace setting up is fine, but the front one is broken at the bottom and completely appeared on top, so that the leading assistance arm no more fastens to the camper. We are in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio sensible? Even the actual support arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier grey metal - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just intending to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is damaged it has to be completely changed? The motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand-new back then. If nothing else, we would such as suggestions regarding exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us via the summer - without needing to place in a brand-new awning! We remain in an extremely severe bind due to the fact that we have a journey planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or held off.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I would certainly rather locate a fast and efficient solution. Any person? Please!.

Welcome to my Recreational Vehicle Restoration Collection!.?.!! I get on action 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I got rid of the roof covering trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to eliminate the RV awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll also observe exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs ahead off first prior to the last steps of this post (revealing the front and back sides of the roof covering decking).

Right here's a detail of just how the awning installing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this step till the awning was on the ground yet I saw this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the RV awning placing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing bracket on the. Getting rid of the mounting bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roof like me, then you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You might have to cut the end with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Just yank it out!

When the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing suddenly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Just know it's coming! Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was attached under it. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly break free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then lower it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just slides right off the canvas by moving the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were removed I might move the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

I pried them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rusty staples holding it down. I pried them out as best I could. The following point holding back the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so once again I just tore up the vinyl insert and took out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

However I might finish up removing it later if I need to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass shift. The roof covering outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass transition must be lifted. To raise that, the corner molding should be removed.

I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I might turn that item of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scrape to a rigid 6 broad putty knife. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened up the other edge trim in the exact same way, and bent it laterally simply enough so that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front side.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much quieting but glue at this moment) and then I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts in any way holding down the roofing plywood! It is completely glued.

Once I scuffed up some of the broken bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to draw. The whole thing began to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand just how specifically they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are joined with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly recognized the roof covering was shedding toughness and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so fractured it off right before the very first joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

The edge of the roof covering decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Once more, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much quieting yet glue at this moment) and afterwards I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Atwood. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding back the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing started to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the items together. I don't recognize exactly how precisely they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing ply are joined with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly understood the roof was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off just before the very first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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