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The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.
It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided right into has retreated from the wall and twisted a bit - Camper Repair Atwood. I'm thinking the fixing will entail changing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using larger scale screws to change those that were taken out
We have actually obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, significant repair work, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure before we recognized the axle was in problem. We have not had the awning out because it was in the shop to be repaired.
The awning itself, spring mechanism, etc, is great. The rear bracket assembly is fine, but the front one is fractured near the bottom and entirely appeared on top, to make sure that the leading assistance arm no much longer affixes to the camper. We remain in trouble. I do not want/like to camp without it.
Does this audio practical? Even the real support arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier gray steel - it's the gray bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to see to it we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.
The Motor home is a 2007, yet we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as advice as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe even obtain us via the summer - without having to place in a brand new awning!
If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd instead discover a fast and effective remedy. Anyone? Please!.
!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the fourth one, I need to get rid of the RV awning.
In order to change the rubber roofing and roof decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to establish on the ground.
You'll also see how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first before the last actions of this message (subjecting the front and back edges of the roofing decking).
Right here's a detail of exactly how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this step till the awning was on the ground yet I noticed this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.
Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the back of the roofing system.
Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing brace on the. Eliminating the placing brace of the awning. Once the placing braces are separated, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is primarily just like a normal piece of aluminum roofing system edge trim molding except that at the lower edge there is a circular track with a slot in it.
To replace the roofing, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing system like me, after that you would not require to get rid of the awning rail.
Going down the legs a few notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Now it's similar to getting rid of the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to cut completion with an utility knife if it is put under the rail) and after that simply tug it out.
You might need to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Then just pull it out! As soon as the vinyl screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went rather promptly.
As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. Once I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing suddenly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.
When the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you begin pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly snap totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.
This point is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that lower it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.
These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply slides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.
Once both set screws were removed I can slide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Another appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can get rid of the old roofing outdoor decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.
I pried them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rusty staples quieting. I tore them out as ideal I could. The next point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so again I just tore up the vinyl insert and drew out sufficient so I might unscrew some screw heads.
I might end up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. The roof covering outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass change must be raised. To raise that, the edge molding have to be gotten rid of.
Then I can swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I might turn that item of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.
I changed from a scrape to a rigid 6 wide putty blade. This piece broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to pry it up. At that point I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened the other edge trim in the exact same method, and bent it sideways simply enough so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.
I found a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.
The side of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof substrate at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.
Once again, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down yet glue now) and afterwards I can pull out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.
I saw there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!
As soon as I scratched up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole thing started to pull up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.
There is a steel reinforced tape on the base that joins the assemble. I do not know just how specifically they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.
I promptly recognized the roof covering was losing toughness and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off just prior to the initial seam. A close of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.
I discovered a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.
The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.
Again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and then I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Camper Repair Atwood. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood
I observed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!
When I scraped up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.
There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't understand just how precisely they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The items of roofing ply are joined with each other at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.
I rapidly understood the roofing was shedding strength and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so split it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof.
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